The Blithe Traveler

My Sentiments Exactly

Some days, I really feel this way. 

This life boat hangs from the deck of the Wharfside Grill Restaurant, located in Hout Bay, just outside of Cape Town, South Africa. 

We ate dinner at this restaurant, in Hout Bay, on Christmas night. Are you interested in a restaurant review? Let's put it this way, any restaurant willing to serve us dinner on Christmas evening gets Five Stars in my book. 

But, the life boat? Isn't that a bit morbid, you ask? The good news in this story is that the "Antipolis" was a derelict that was being towed (on her way to a scrap yard in the "Far East") when she was wrecked, so no lives were lost when she went down. 

 

The full story is rather interesting, as she was being towed from Greece with the Romelia, and both were wrecked in bad weather:  

Durring the afternoon, as the tug approached Robben Island with the gale now blowing harder than ever, the rope between the Antipolis and the tug snagged on the sea bed. All attempts to free it failed, and whilst the crew was busy with that task, the Romelia surged ahead of the tug taking its tow rope underneath the tugs hull.

Fearing for his props, the Tug Master could only watch in horror as the Antipolis finally broke her tow rope and became cast adrift. Meanwhile the tug was still firmly anchored to the bottom and the Captain had to order the crew to cut through the towing hawser with a gas torch so as to release his tug.

Whilst all this was going on, the Romelia then parted her tow rope and happily sped towards the waiting shore. The Antipolis ended up driven ashore by fifty knot winds at Oudekraal on the Cape Peninsula, and the Romelia was cast ashore on Sunset Rocks, in the pretty Llandudno Bay a few hundred yards away.She finally broke her back and sunk in two halves. Antipolis and Romelia

So, interesting story, and while the captain of the tug may well have been out of a job, the lifeboat is an entertaining afterthought, rather than a sobering reminder of the brutality of the sea. 

Next: Something from South Africa; what exactly depends on time and internet access

 

Commercial Flight

Hey, anybody here have their own jet? No, me neither. But every once in a great while, the Commercial Gods nod in your direction. In my case, it's a nod once in almost fifty years. 

We were on the last flight out of Durban on Christmas Eve. They were closing the airport around us. The flight from Dubai was huge, so the lines for customs and at the baggage carousel were brutal. We only had an hour and a half to make our flight, so there was much discussion, debate and a bit of twitching around "options" should we be unexpectedly spending our Christmas Eve in Durban. However, once we made it through the morass and into the airport proper, not a creature was stirring, not even a dassie.(1) 

There was no one else waiting as we checked in. And there was no line at security. 

When we arrived at the gate, with well over half an hour to spare (whew!!), the gate check lady said, "Glad to see you! We're waiting for one other gent, then we'll board." We looked around. Nope, nobody else. "Yes," she said, "you're it! There are only five of you on the flight." 

What your very own bus to the plane looks like. 

Raj soon joined us, and yes, when it is you and only one other dude on a plane, introductions are a matter of course, and we headed out to the plane. As we were the last flight out, time was no longer relevant: we ended up leaving twenty minutes early, because, we could.

They made us sit in our assigned seats for takeoff, but then we could sit anywhere we wished. You can see Raj's arm if you peer back. He got the emergency exit row. The pre-take off chat was pretty hilarious. Tom and I kept giving the air attendants thumbs up at our favorite bits; at one point, I wasn't sure she was going to be able to finish. 

 Have you ever wondered what it looks like to look out the front of a plane at 30,000 feet? 

I'm still wondering, because only the children were invited. 

 So, nicest flight ever landed about half an hour early, we grabbed our bags,

And headed off to do battle at the rental car counter. 

Next: Penguins!

 __________________________________________________________________

(1) Dassie: the cutest thing ever. This one is a baby, so super cute. They live "in the wild" around Cape Town, but seem to not have a ton of predators, because, they hang out and don't waddle away when you take their photograph. 

 

Dubai!

But, we didn't actually see any of Dubai; it was a waystation on our way to South Africa. We landed near midnight, took a shuttle to a hotel airport, and am-scrayed early the following morning on our way to Durban. So, have we been to the United Arab Emirates? 

If you ask Tom, he'll say, "Sort of." Which is not a bad answer. Every few years, I sit down with Mr. Google and the children and work out how many countries they've been too. It's not a serious question, and, it's tougher than you might think to actually "count" them, as different people view "countries" at different levels. For instance, are the US Virgin Islands and the British Virgin Islands actually countries? Of course not, they are part of the US and the United Kingdom, but, some "country" lists count them. So, it gets complicated. 

We tend to count countries where we've had a meal or spent the night.  For example, we drove through Lichtenstein a few years back and had a lovely lunch, so that gets added to the list of countries we've been to. However, we flew through the Maldives and spent and hour sitting in the airport waiting to board our next plane: doesn't count.

It does seem, as we spent that night, that we'll count the United Arab Emirates, despite the fact that we saw naught but our pillows and the highway between the airport and the Premier Airport Hotel. Are you curious as to how many countries we've all been to? Well, it depends on how you want to count the USVI and the BVIs, of course, but I'm over 60, and the children are in the mid-50s. So, a lot, no matter how you count them. 

Next: Private Planes, Commercial Style

 

 

South Africa, Itinerary

My original thought for the Christmas holiday was Finland, to see the Northern Lights. It's an inexpensive trip that time of the year, as not many people find 24hour darkness to their liking. And, in fact, not many people in my travel pod thought it was a good idea. 

Me: "Hey, who would like to see the Northern Lights!?"

Everyone: "Yeah! Me!"

Me: "Who wants to go North to Finland for Christmas?!"

*insert sound of crickets chirping*

Jeff was near incredulous: "You realize we are talking about days of seriously freezing cold and no daylight?? And we might not even see the Northern Lights??" To my credit, I had checked the cycles of the moon, and it would be blessed dark and really cold, so the odds of actually seeing the Northern Lights were pretty good, barring bad weather. And how could there be bad weather north of the Arctic Circle in December? 

So, time for a new plan. "Summer" was the new plan, but, of course, booking as I do, (late!!) Thailand was full. Other places we looked at were not necessarily "full," but expensive to get there or expensive once we were there (Seychelles, Madagascar).

But, Africa calls right now. We can still get there easily, and with virtually no time change. Ghana was not too expensive, but it didn't appeal to Jeff, Kenya came off the list because of the terror attacks in Nairobi. Morocco and Tunisia aren't really so very much "summer" in December.

It so happens South Africa has been on my list for a long time: so long that I had done a good bit of travel planning around it and had a pretty good idea of what I wanted to do if we could ever get there. Luckily, Emirates has a new route to Durban, so the flights were as reasonable as these things get during the Christmas season. Which is to say, much more expensive than Finland, but still a lot less than Seychelles. Plus, we get to spend a day in Dubai, so there's a huge win. 

We're flying into Durban, catching a local flight to Cape Town and then driving back to Durban. Through Lesotho. It's about 27 hours of driving over a couple of weeks, with lots of fun stops along the way. Christmas in Cape Town, New Year in Lesotho, and we're even getting to Bethlehem, South Africa. Last year, Bethlehem, Palestine Authority, in previous years, Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, but I think this takes Bethlehem to a whole new level. I had no idea how many there were in the world. 

• There are over 20 towns and cities named Bethlehem in the United States. There are also Bethlehems in other countries, including Wales, Switzerland, South Africa and New Zealand.

View Larger Map 

There will be trips to animal parks, although SA is not really known for proper animal safaris of the sort we did in Tanzania, we'll be traveling on the famous Garden Route driving tour, and will be staying in a small village in Lesotho. Plus, staying at a rehabilitation facility for Big Cats and doing a special photo day with Leopards. I am jonesing for a couple of carved animal masks (warthog and zebra are two I'd really like to add to the wall), and rumor has it they may be had in South Africa. So, let the holiday travel begin!  

Next: Possibly Something About Dubai, as That's Our First Stop 

 

 

 

Vezeme Vam Betlémské Světlo

We are carrying the Bethlehem Light: 

Each year, a child (in the scouts) from Austria collects the flame from the grotto in Bethlehem where Jesus is believed to have been born. Biblical scholars say the flame of the Peace Light originated has been burning since 500 A.D. The light is then flown to Austria from where it is distributed to delegations from across Europe who take it back to their own countries for use at ecumenical services.

This is the Light, in Náměstí Svobody in Brno. 

For the past decade or so, the flame has further traveled on to the US, via the Boy Scouts. Perhaps it made a stop in your home town? 

View Peace Light 2013 Distribution in a larger map 

The motto of this year's Light of Bethlehem is in the spirit of the fifth chapter of the book of the prophet Micah: "Never underestimate the little ones, it may surprise you - from a tiny beginning will come a great thing."

American Boy Scout officials said the Peace Light gives us hope, even though there is much darkness in the world.

Here's wishing you and yours a peaceful, happy, healthy 2014. 

 

 

Christmas Markets, The Last

I wrote a sniffly sort of post last year about our "last trip to the Brno Christmas markets." 

And then managed to schedule my holiday season to visit them one last last time this year. Next year? We're aiming for Bethlehem, PA; I suppose time will tell.  

It was fascinating for me to go back and read last year's post, particularly as I read it after we visited this year. 2013 Last Brno Christmas Market. In it, I talk about my deep love for trdelník.

 

Jeff, who cannot eat these baked over charcoal, sugar, cinnamon coated delights, snuck off and bought one for each of us. 

They aren't actually all that terrifically tasty, but there is something charming about them. I have one each year and look forward to it more than anything else the markets have to offer. I imagine next year I'll look back on this posting and be a bit weepy about how I'll never have another Christmas trdelník. 

But, last year I also commented on how we looked at buying a handmade bell for our not-yet-purchased-farm. This year, we bought one. A bell, to be clear, not a farm. Although, I wonder if that's a sign? 

We sprang for the $37US model, so I'm not sure it will serve as a dinner bell for the entirety of our still-not-acquired farm, but part of that will depend on how many acres we end up with. As of now, we're at 0 acres, so, the bell will suit just fine.  

Next: The Peace Light

 

 

 

More! Monaco! Part 2

600 years of Grimaldi's, there are a lot of streets named after them. Avenue Prince Pierre, Boulevard Rainier III, Avenue Albert II. 

Monaco is not a place one immediately things of as a destination for children. There are, however a few touristy things that are of interest to smaller sized humans. The first is Prince Rainier's automobile museum and the second would be the a fore mentioned aquarium. 

Ranier, as you may recall, married American actress Grace Kelly in 1956. She died tragically in an automobile accident in 1982, while Rainier lived to 81, passing away in 2005. He left behind his automobile collection: 

I love that he collected cars just because he liked them. Less lovable is the notion of wealth so extreme that he could afford to buy whatever vehicle tickled his fancy, but, whatever. He had a nice selection of cars.

And of all the odd things, we have a small car buff in our family: Hope. She loves cars. Who would have thunk? Living in a city as we do, and hoofing it frequently, she has a lot of exposure to automobiles: I trot along behind her on the street as she muses over the merits of Volkswagens vs BMWs. She has already decided that she would like her first car to be an Audi TT. To which I have said something along things lines of, "Good luck with that, I do hope they raise the minimum wage for McDonald's workers, 'cause you have to work a lot of shifts to pull together that kind of scratch." 

Anyway, to the cars we went. She insisted on being photographed with her favorites: here we have a 1937 Jaguar.The classic Jaguar is one of our favorite cars. The lines on those things make me weak. Although in my opinion, this photograph does not show off its sleekness to a proper advantage. 

There are about a hundred cars in the collection; and carriages, and the random boat or snow machine. There is a ton of money tied up in it all. 

Honestly, as I was leaving my one hope was that someone was taking these cars out of the museum periodically and using them.  As beautifully restored and cared for as they are, they are still cars, and I can't help but think they are meant to be driven.

The car museum behind us, we headed off to the Oceanographic Museum. It has been quite a few years since I took the children to an aquarium, mostly because the last time we went, I spent a small fortune on admission, then spend a bare, albeit, tiresome hour wandering around, nearly dying of boredom before we left. The whole experience left me feeling that aquariums are a serious waste of time and money. But, there isn't a whole lot for children to do in Monaco, and the Oceanographic Museum did come highly rated as an activity, so off we went.

Turned out to be a huge win.  I won't bore you absolutely to tears with the fiendish photos Hope took of the Mystery Hell Creatures that Roam the Deep, but I was pretty terrified. There's a lot of freaky stuff living at the bottom of the sea. You know, like that. 

We were all really entertained for quite a bit longer than I ever would have imagined, although I spent most of the afternoon trying not to faint every time I caught a glimpse of the Moray Eels. No, no photos of those. I have some mercy. 

But, the best, best, best part of the whole Oceanographic Museum was at the very end. They have shark petting! I have no idea what the ethics are of this one, but it was pretty cool. The sharks are quite small, but very shark like, so it took a few minutes for Hope to warm up to the idea. But one she petted one, she put "shark" on her Christmas list. 

Why on earth they do not nibble on human fingers, I do not know. 

And with that, we were finished with Monaco. We never even got around to seeing the Casino: they don't allow children in even to view it, and one must dress properly, including a jacket and proper shoes for me, so right there, no chance. On the upside the weekend was warm, sunny, and the city is a charming.  Downside, it is expensive, even in the off-season, plus rather hilly for marching around with children.

Monaco is simply never going to make my Top Ten European list, because, I'm not the sort of person who Monaco is interested in attracting. Beautiful people, gamblers, Formula 1 fans and Lamborghini drivers, are all more at home here than I would ever be: as they say, different strokes for different folks. 

 

More! Monaco! Part 1

This photo is from the Wiki page on the Palace of the Prince and shows the Rocher de Monaco (Rock of Monaco) on which the Palace and former fortress is built. The Royal family lives there to this day.  

We climbed up that hill twice, once the first night looking for dinner and beautiful evening views. We found the views, but no meal. The second time was for daylight views and to visit the quite engrossing Oceanographic Museum. 

 And here is the Palace in daylight. 

 Notice anything else interesting?

Two things, really. One, the place is super clean. And two, no people. 

It wasn't just us all the time. But a more often than you might think, we were wandering the streets pretty much by ourselves. Weirdly quiet place during November. I would guess in August it is a madhouse, but I'm not going back, so someone else will have to visit and give a report.

You want to see something else really interesting? You know what stands in for "mass transport" in Monaco? Lifts. 

Public elevators are "all over" Monaco; we rode in three, and Wiki says there are seven in total (Wiki Monaco Public Transport). It's a hilly sort of country, and the lifts get you from one level to another with fewer stairs. PS, Monaco does have a bus system, plus underground railways running to France and Italy, so I jest about the lifts being their only mass transit. But, how many cities do you know of who have a system to shift people up and down? It's a benefit, believe me. 

Tomorrow: The Last of Monaco, or What We Actually Did While We Were There, Other Than Take the Lifts 

 

 

Monaco, Some Fun! Facts!

Monaco is the second smallest nation in the world (after the Holy See); it is roughly the size of New York's Central Park. Chew on that bit of salt cod for a minute. An entire country roughly three times the size of The Mall in DC. 

An itsy bitsy, teeny weeny, yellow polka dot bikini sized country. 

The city of Monte Carlo and the Principality of Monaco are basically the same thing. 

You are looking at a good sized chunk of the whole shebang right here. 

Do you known about the other itsy bitsy European countries? San Marino is third on the list, nestled as it is inside Italy. It's huge compared to Vatican City (0.44 square km) and Monaco (1.95 square km ), at a whopping 61 square km, but, still on the small side for a Sovereign Nation. San Marino also has the record for oldest surviving sovereign state and constitutional republic in the world, founded on the 3rd of September 301. 

Liechtenstein (160 square km) and Malta (316 square km), both of which we have been to, are fourth and fifth on the list, followed by Andorra (468 square km). We have a plan to get to Andorra in February, and there is a lot of love to hit up San Marino before we leave Europe permanently. Making a list, checking it twice. 

And, in the photo, those are yachts, of course in the harbor. Monaco's a rich place. But, have I mentioned, small? Here's a school playground. 

 Monaco was founded by Francesco Grimaldi, when  in 1297, dressed as a monk, he and a hearty band monk-suited warriors, seized the Rock of Monaco. Not sure how the Geneva convention would handle that one, but it was the beginning of the the Grimaldi dynasty. Thus, while the country is a millennium younger than San Marino, it makes the US look like a suckling babe. 

Here we have a statue of the monk-garbed Grimaldi, just outside the Prince's Palace. 

PS, that is a very simplified history: there was a lot more back and forthing, plus, Nazis, but, in 1297, a Grimaldi started the dynasty, and today, Monaco's head of state is Prince Albert II, aka, Albert Alexandre Louis Pierre Grimaldi, reigning monarch of the Principality of Monaco, and head of the Princely House of Grimaldi. So, long lineage. And he's (relatively recently) married to Charlotte, She Who Wept So Oddly At Her Wedding a few years back (Serious Wedding Crying). 

Monaco's current image as a a playground for the wealthy began in the mid-1800's with the opening of The Casino. Monaco is tiny and had no income to speak of. Opening the casino provided a reason for people to come on down, and a hundred and fifty years later, it is still a key driver of the economy. Although, good researchers will point out that tourism is what actually drives the economy. That and the yacht parking fees. 

 

Some other fun oddities about the Wee State of Monaco:  

Known as Europe’s tax haven, each and every Monégasque (citizens of Monaco) enjoys a tax-free lifestyle since the 1870s. However, citizens are not allowed to gamble, or even visit the casinos. There are only about 6,000 Monégasque passport holders, however. That's about 20% of the population of Monaco; the rest are French, Italian and a scattering of wealthy n'er do wells who wander in and out, mostly via helicopter and Lamborghini.

Next: More! Monaco!  

 

Castle Hill and Vieux Nice

We had beautiful weather, so taking advantage of the sunshine and very mild temperatures, we climbed up the port side of Castle Hill, down the other side to the Promenade des Anglais and Vieux Nice (Old Nice), then back up again and over the top of Castle Hill back to our car. 

The beautiful Castle Hill ...is named after a large fortified castle that stood until the late 17th century when it was dismantled upon the orders of The Sun King, Louis XIV of France. It was then redeveloped in the 1830s by King Charles-Felix of Savoy who decided to take advantage of the amazing view from the top of the hill and therefore to redevelop it by placing a landscaped park and an artificial waterfall in order to attract tourists from the European aristocratic circles. French Riviera Blog

Hard to argue with that view. We are looking down on the Promenade des Anglais. You can see there are definitely people enjoying the beach, but it's not terribly crowded. 

 And here you can see Old Town from above.  

 Temps? Sunny and t-shirt. 

I suppose it is not surprising that people declare their ever lasting love up here. It's not a bridge exactly, but a view point above the beach at Nice seems like an appropriate spot to seal your bond for life. 

 We headed down to the rocky beach to check it out. 

 Pretty rocky. So, we played the Rock Game until Jeff got bored and we had to head out. 

It really was beautiful. There was plenty of space for everyone, unlike during the summer, when one imagines everyone is shoulder to shoulder.  

 From the rock beach, we headed into Old Town for a look around. Again, utterly charming, peaceful and quiet. 

The sun was getting low, and we had about a twenty minute drive to Monaco, and we were planning to drive along the cliffs, the better to enjoy the views, we headed back to our car. 

Next: How Many Lamborghinis Can You See In This Picture?