Ball Season

Ball Season. Not foot, nor base, nor basket. Just, "Ball."

In Vienna, there are, depending on which source you chose to use, between 150 and 300 Balls during "Ball Season." That would be January to early-March, for those so inclined to wonder. So, even on the low side, this grand city averages over ten balls a weekend. Ball seasons exists during the period post-Christmas holiday and pre-Fasching (the German/Austrian equivalent of Carnival). So, between the New Year and the beginning of Lent, Vienna puts on their fancy dress and waltzes their little hearts out.

The history behind this is fascinating. It takes us back to the mid to late 1700s, when Emperor Joseph II, was in charge. He was far more egalitarian than the average Emperor of the day, and he decided that the ballrooms in the Hofburg palace should not be reserved just for nobility. In 1773 he made the ballrooms available for everyone, kicking off the tradition of "public balls" in Vienna.

Hofburg Palace (or Imperial Palace). This is where the ball we attended was held. No kidding. It was all pretty grand. 

The tradition of Vienna Balls involves lots of dancing. I would say "primarily" the Vienna Waltz, but that depends on the ball you attend.The Viennese Waltz, if you are not a dance affectionado, is the original form of close dancing. Unlike what you might think of as "waltzing," which happens at the relatively slow speed of about 90 beats per minute, the Viennese Waltz speeds along at a 180 beats per measure. So, it's fast. It is also considered a rotary dance, where the dancers are constantly turning either toward the leaders right or left, interspersed with non-rotating change steps to switch between the direction of rotation.

I think Jeff was a little miffed that I wasn't all together willing to try to fake this particular dance. While I was more than willing to hang out on the dance floor, pretending to my hearts content when the beat was a little slower, once the tempo increased, I vamoosed. Really, interspersing non-rotating changes steps is more than my poseur heart could bear.

Our ball had nine ballrooms available (below you see the main one, where we were seated) and each ballroom had its own style of music. Ours, being the main ball room, focused early in the evening (that would be from 9:00pm until midnight) on classical waltzes, swing, big band and other sorts of music that allowed those folks who really know how to dance to show off their moves. 

All of the traditional ball stuff happened in the main ball. First, dancing opened with the Debutantes (above!). And, who in the blistering blue blazes are the Debs, you might be wondering? These young ladies are all unmarried, great dancers, and, apparently, they get a kick out of waltzing at balls. There are auditions for the biggest balls of the season, although, I posit for this ball (the International Atomic Energy Ball), maybe they went to some Deb Agency and hired this crowd for the evening. 

Dress code for the best Balls, those on the formal Ball Calender, is quite strict, and rumor has it you will be barred from entering if you fail to read the fine print. In our case, this meant a long gown for me (and no white, as white is reserved for the Debs) and traditional black tie for Jeff. We also had the choice of Native Costume, but that didn't leave us much to work with, so we went with Option A, displayed for your viewing pleasure below. We are at a pre-Ball gathering here, drinking champagne and wondering, "Now, how exactly did we end up here?"

Shame there isn't a better photo of my dress, because it is actually pretty, and not all shiny and fake looking like in the photo. The story behind this particular get-up is that before we left China, I decided that I should have a nice Ball gown, as opposed to the shoddy Ball gown I had made in Nanjing for the Nanjing Balls. Because, we were moving to Europe, and surely the fancy pants ex-pat community in our new home would have a Ball. Back in the spring of 2009, I headed to Shanghai, had this lovely number made for somewhere around $40US (plus extra for the Thai silk wrap - I forget, but I think it was another twenty bucks) and figured I'd be all set for Ball Season in the Czech Republic.

Which, of course, did not happen because not only were there not any Balls in Brno, there wasn't even really much in the way of an "expat population." I mean, we could probably have rounded up half a dozen couples, rented a barn, made a curtain out of a blanket, handed round pots and spoons for entertainment and put on our own Ball, but, ultimately, I let the dress sit in my closet figuring at some point in my life I'd get my forty bucks worth.

"All right, Mr. DeMille, I'm ready for my close-up." Seriously, my internal pendulum spent the evening swinging from thinking I looked slightly ridiculous to patently ridiculous.

We left at around 2:00am. The ball was still in full swing. Around midnight, they brought in an awesome cover band and the main ball room rocked. That lasted for about an hour, and then it was time for the traditional Vienna Quadrille. The Viennese Quadrille is based on four couples. The quads line up in enormous lines (there must have been a thousand people jammed onto the dance floor) with male and female partners facing each other. The dance then proceeds through six long and complex "figures."

There was a caller for this particular ball, first taking pains to explain what the figures were, and then calling them to the music. Although at the super fancy, white tie balls, you are meant to know how to Quadrille - one imagines when a group who know what they are doing execute a quadrille it is quite breathtaking. With this crowd, it was more hilarious. And the whole thing ends up with what is called the Gallope. In this movement, the couples facing each other raise their hands and clasp them, creating a tunnel, and the last couple in line "gallops" through. When they get to the "end" of the line, they stop, raise their hands and extend the tunnel - the next "first couple" then gallops through. Since there were a thousand people doing this, you can only imagine the melee.

.

Ball season is pretty much an open affair in Vienna: if you have money to pay for tickets, you can pack up your fancy dudes and attend a ball. We picked this particular Ball because friends of our were going and offered to procure tickets. The really hot shot Ball tickets, like the Opera House or the Philharmonic are quite pricey, white tie, and if you are serious about going, hook up with a tour that will cost you a fortune, but will guarantee entree.

As for the rest of the balls, they range from the Pharmacists Ball to the Ball of the Viennese Coffee House Owners to the Bon-Bon Ball to the Hunter's Ball, and the all important, Irish Ball. One imagines that one would be a hoot and a half.

So,, if you are serious about coming, pre-planning can start now. Check out the ball calendar, decide if you are a white tie or black tie sort of couple, book a couple of dancing lessons, find yourself a nice hotel with a Ball dinner, and strap on your dancing shoes.

Tomorrow: Back to Argentina!

 

Comments

[Katherine]

I say embrace the ballgown! If you will be in V next year, take a few lessons & set a goal to VW on 2013. Yes dressing up & flinging oneself about is ridiculous but so is a snowball fight. Get in touch with your inner 18th C nobility.

Or if you really have the nerve, go in cowboy boots & Stetsons. The last bit doesn't sound that much different from a Virginia Reel.

[Jennifer]

Yarn Ball?
And that's a serious chignon you have there - lovely.

[Debbie Hanson]

Your dress is lovely. Perhaps all you needed to feel more comfortable were paddock boots instead of heels.:)

[Susan / ChocoMare]

Gawjus dahling!