The Churches

This about sums up the church situation in Cappadocia: "Who knows how many churches and chapels are hidden in the Cappadocian valleys? The best-known may be inside the Goreme Open-Air Museum but wherever you go you will find other churches - and often you will have them completely to yourself."

So, you can see churches in a confined area, using head phones to get the most of your experience, matching lockstep with the bus tourists, or you can get out in the wild and track your own churches. We did a mix of these options, and saw a fascinating array of ancient, carved cave churches.

We started out in search of churches by going to the previously mentioned Open-Air Museum. When we hopped out of the car, we met Mehmet, a local dude who skulking in the parking lot, and he talked us into spending the morning with him going on a private tour of what I would call "semi-wild" churches.

His argument was that the Open Air Museum would be packed (which it was, the bus parking lot was jammed) and that he could show us around to a few things that were as nice, but we'd have some peace and quiet. Turned out to be an excellent choice. He was quite a good guide, the cost was reasonable and we avoided the crowds.

Semi-Wild Churches: this one is kept under lock and key by order of the Turkish officials who manage this UNESCO sight, but one of the neighbor ladies has a key, so anyone who can find it can ask and have a look.

Mahment gave detailed explanations of the frescoes, explaining that churches could be dated based on the religious art. There are reoccurring themes, including, but not limited to the Holy Family, St. George slaying the dragon, and imagines of the apostles. What is so striking is how old these frescoes are. They are defaced, scratched, and there is often graffiti, but they are still astonishing to see. They are so old, and yet they are bright, vibrant and I could easily imagine what these cave churches must have been like when they were still in use.

This was our second semi-wild cave visitation with Mehmet. This is an older church, with little in the way of paintings to adorn it.

But here is the ancient pulpit.

With that, we bid Adieu to Mehmet, stocked up on provisions and headed off in search of a church out in the wild.

Here we are hiking up above Rose Valley. Note the loaf of bread I am holding. This is my idea of "provisions." Jeff, the gluten intolerant, gets cheese and Snicker Bars.

And, yes! Look! There it is! A church out in the wild.

We hiked down to it.

And up into it. I swear I lose a year of my life every time I look at this photo. Yea, gods, boy, BACK AWAY FROM THE EDGE!

Inside it was beautifully carved and there were frescoes. The children just loved exploring. I promise you that the history was completely lost on them, but they were entranced with the idea that people carved these caves and lived their lives in them (they were monasteries as well as places of worship).

This is an interesting tidbit. These are pigeon roosts. From what we gathered from Mahmet, the soil of Cappadocia is poor. To compensate, farmers from the Bronze age until just 30 years ago fertilized the soil with pigeon droppings. (Thirty years ago, they began using commercial fertilizer.)

The need for pigeon guano led to an entire industry in Cappadocia---pigeon houses. Niches were carved into the soft rockfaces, with just a small opening for the pigeon. These niches are carved in rows, with human access via ladders or stairways. Those who tended the "houses" would also put a branch sticking out for the pigeons to land on. Once a year, they would smoke the pigeons out of their roosts, and harvest the droppings as fertilizer. (The smoke masks the human scent, so the pigeons come back.)

Here we are, me clutching my loaf of bread. The bread in Turkey ranged from really great to super fantastic. I hate to rub that in, since certain members of our family were not in a position to sample it, but I have to say, I was impressed.

And down we go. Ack.

All in all, a great day. In the interests of full disclosure, the children found Mehmet's lecture less than enthralling, but hiking through the valley and exploring the church more than made up for it.

 

 

Comments

[Debbie Hanson]

This looks soooo interesting!