Of Camels and Caves

Bright and early we arose to take the ferry to Tangier, Morocco.

It's less tricky than you might think, crossing from continent to continent. We went through passport control on the Spanish side, hopped on the ferry ... someone was sneaking a peek at the television...

...rode for half and hour, through passport control on the other side, and we were in.

Isn't it gorgeous? We took the unusual step of hiring a guide for this particular trip. Given that we were in a hurry, and were a little concerned that our usual hit or miss kind of tourism would result in too many misses in our only foray onto the African continent, it seemed like a good idea. A year later, the jury is still out.

The guy we used was definitely a pro; one of his claims to fame is having chaperoned one B. Springsteen around the town - and he has photo evidence, so it did not appear to be a case of blowing smoke. However, we're not the sort of people who really appreciate the touristy "pro-tour." Our guide, a gentleman presented to us as "Mohamed" (we strongly suspected this was not his actual name, but rather a nom de plume the agency uses to keep it simple for the foreigners) was super-smooth and a delightful conversationalist: all in all, a very a well trained professional with a specific tourist agenda.

But, in hindsight, it might have been more fun to wander on our own. 

So, do you know the two things touristy Tangier has historically been known for? I did not, but Mohammad was kind enough to give us the inside skinny: smoking "dope" and finding same s*x partners. Ah, yes. Those are the reasons we came here. With our two children.

As I said, Mohamed was a consummate professional, and did not overtly offer to scare up either illegal drugs or same s*x partners, but he made it gently clear that if there were any interest in either of these things, while they were technically illegal, he probably knew some people who knew some people, if we understood his meaning. Which I did. And behaved in the appropriate politely disinterested manner.

It is a credit to Mohamed's not inconsiderable charm that I remember all of this fondly.  The guy was seriously good. Historical footnote: Jeff will likely protest that this conversation never happened. And I will tell you that Jeff had a hard time understanding Mohamed's accent.

Once this bit was out of the way, our agenda for the day was laid out: Viewing the views,  seeing Hercules Cave, checking out the camels, browsing in the Souk (the market) and rocking the Casbah. A full day.

And up first, the Hercules Cave, so named because Hercules paused here for a nap post-Twelve Labors. Oddly enough, I had been of the impression that Hercules was a mythical character, but as a professed Philistine, I will admit I am no scholar of mythology. Or history. 

There is one oddity about the cave, above and beyond being Hercules' resting place, that makes it quite interesting. Check out this "window" to the sea. Can you see the map of Africa? Try squinting. Actually, if you use a mirror, it becomes quite obvious. I suppose I could have flipped the photo around, but, really this is the way you see it from inside the cave, and if I had to work for it, you can too.

This particular bit is not visible during high tide, so high five to Mohamed for managing the timing.

The cave tour was shy of fascinating; we had a local guy give us the inside skinny. Unfortunately, the dude was the sort who not only could provide local flavor, but also smoked quantities of it. Vast quantities. Making for a strange sort of presentation. Even I, who have a pretty good ear for working out vagaries of the English language eventually gave up trying to understand a word he mumbled and just nodded blankly until he was finished. Nice guy, but it is hard to understand the seriously stoned.

From the cave, we moved to the seaside where there were a few camels waiting for us. Now, I really don't like this sort of thing. I mean, it's one thing to venture out to the dunes and have a camel ride in the desert, but they bring the camels into Tangier by the edge of the water for the tourists. And their photo ops. By the blue, blue sea.

This is the downside of going with a guide agency. Sometimes you get stuck doing things you really don't think are the greatest idea. And you might wonder why we just didn't politely decline? I mean, it's not like I let them hook me up with a nickle bag just because they offered.

Honestly? Because Hope loves camels. They love her back. 

The guy in the photo is Mohamed, by the way - he even smelled nice.

 

 And it did make a nice Christmas card.

 Tomorrow: Of Souks, and Tangines and Rocking the Casbah

 

Comments

[Debbie Hanson]

What a cool photo!!

[tjlodge]

LOVE the family photo!!! :D